Custom-made watch / 特注品を製作しました

久しぶりの更新です。

国内の方よりオーダーをいただきまして特別注文の時計を製作しておりました。
以前eBayに出品していたシングルハンドの作品をご覧になり興味を持っていただいたようです。
ありがとうございます！

シンプルな３針、自動巻きのモデルです。
ブロンズを使用すること、針の形状やインデックスのデザインなど
お客様の希望を取り入れつつメールで何度もやり取りしながら詰めていきました。
ブロンズ製のベゼルやリュウズは徐々に酸化して黒ずみ、「味」が出てくるのではないでしょうか。

主なスペックは以下の通り。
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Case : Handmade / Bronze + Stainless-steel
Size : Width 39mm, Lug to lug 47mm, Thickness 9.4mm
Lug width : 20mm
Movement : ETA2824-2 Swiss Automatic
Crystals : Sapphier
Strap : Dark-grey suede leather 

Dial and three hands are handmade from steel.
Dark-gray dial is stained with burned oil.
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なにげに３針時計の製作は初めてでした。スチール製、0.5ｍｍ幅の秒針にはとくに苦労しました。
文字盤はいちどオイルを焼き付けて真っ黒にしたあと、研磨スポンジで少しずつオイルを削り落としダークグレーにしています。塗料を吹き付ければ簡単ですが、地のスチールの質感を殺さずに少しムラ気のある表面にしたいとのお客様の意向がありましたのでこの方法を採りました。

これまで４２ｍｍ径の時計をお使いになられていたようですが少し大きすぎるとのことで外径は３９ｍｍに落とし、ドレスウオッチ。。。とまではいきませんが、袖口で邪魔にならないよう厚みも10ｍｍ以下におさえました。

インナーにはおなじみのペルラージュ。ムーブは定番ですがETA2824です。真鍮のインナーホルダーには酸化防止のため保護用ラッカーを薄く引いてあります。

以上、カスタムオーダー品の一例として紹介させていただきました。
このようにご予算に応じてオリジナルのウオッチを製作いたします。
もしご興味がおありの方がいらっしゃいましたらお気軽にご連絡ください。

If you are interested in custom-made watches,
Please feel free to cantact !! >>>> interimlamb@outlook.jp

Release version is completed

It has been very hot everyday! I break out in sweat when I am at machining work.

Hand-winding movement has been overhauled.

The clear hour-disk is printed with numbers. It is fixed to the center star-wheel shaft.

After re-designed blue steel hand is attached, The bezel is screwed on the main case.
This jumping-hour watch is completed!
Probably I will be able to sell this watch at much lower price than model IL020.

Profile of new jumping hour watch

Bezel diameter = 41mm, Lug to lug = 49mm, Height = 15mm

Strap width = 20mm

Fontainemelon FHF98 hand winding movement, brass inner ring

Pre-product / Jumping Hour Edition 2, Disk Hour

40mm diameter, 15mm thick stainless case. FHF cal.98 movement with original jumping hour module. The details later.

厚みが１５ｍｍとあえてゴツくデザインしました。全体的にモノトーンで「ギア」っぽい雰囲気にしたかったので文字盤もスチール製の４層構造で少し汚しを入れてます。これ一枚だけということでディスクの数字を印刷に出さなかったので綺麗ではないですが…製品版はきちんとプリントしてもらいます。

IL020 Jumping Hour Model / Now accepting orders

I have started to take orders of IL020. 

If you have interested in this model, please feel free to contact.

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Original designed handmade stainless steel case

Case size : 41 x 49 x 11mm
Band width : 22mm
Movement : Swiss Fontainemelon (FHF) cal.98, Handwinding + Orginal Handmade Jumping Hour Module
Glasses :Sapphire
Black croco grained calf  leather strap
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The specifications are subject to change without notice.

PRICE:3,300USD + worldwide shipping cost 35USD

Build To Order (It will take 3-4 months until delivery.)

At first I ask 1,000USD as a deposit. Cancellation within one week from order acceptance, the deposit will be full refund. After completion of production, I request the balance and shipping cost.

Assembling, and completed !

This watch-making project will be finished at last. All parts has been produced.
FHF98 hand-winding movement is overhauled.

Assemble jumping-hour module parts.

Attentively adjust tension of jumper springs. In too weak or too strong, it does not work correctly.

Inner holder with movement is fixed with two screws.

Two clear plate (only 0.5mm thick acrylic plate) are screwed to the inner holder.

They don't disappear pretty perlage pattern.

Only the side of the lug is made with mat finish and the other surface is hairlined. They will be fixed to the main case with M1.6 micro screws (their head is cut and chamfered).

All parts are assembled !

Case parts making Pt.8 / Perlage

Perlage is one of the most popular decoration for watch movement. It is a very simple circular pattern by grinding. I applied it on the brass inner holder and on visible part of the base plate of movement.

Case parts making Pt.7 / Crown

The time of making crown parts has come at last. Already outer shape has been prepared on the lathe.

This crown has nine grooves. When I produced a trial model, I cut them with a starting drill. However, I use a Φ1.6mm ultra-hard rotary bar this time.

This tool is very useful. It facilitates cutting with small resistance.

To a lathe again. Chamfered and hiarlined.

These two parts will be combined later.

Case parts making Pt.6

I thought that this stepped case needs some eye-catching on its bezel. So I decided to put six rivets on it. Thanks to them the wide bezel doesn't look boring, I believe.

Making the seats which the rivets fit into.

It is an important point that the hole diameter cuts into the slant of the bezel.

Next, make the rivets from stainless rod. Rounding off their heads by handmade forming tool.

Polished heads and completed. Diameter is a little less than 2.0mm.

I made the crown tube too.